Spring is upon us and its that time of year when a leaking roof rears its ugly head. Roofing failure is caused by several factors. As rule of thumb a roof will not just start leaking unless something has changed. Changes in a roofs integrity can be caused by wind damage, ice damming, hail, wind or material failure. Poor roof installation is probably the biggest factor in most roof problems. At sterling our installers are trained in accordance with roofing manufacturers specifications.
In addition our roof projects are inspected through the installation process and then finally when the roof is complete. If a roof is installed correctly then you should not have any issues. At Sterling we do not to roof layovers which is one of the worst ways to save money. When we remove a roof we inspect all the decking and make the client aware of any rotten wood. In addition we replace all the flashing pieces. Caulk is not the answer to installing a roof correctly. We also inspect other aspects of your roof structure which could be a current or future problem such as gutters and chimney tuck-pointing and flashing. Why spend a couple thousand dollars on your roof and not resolve some of the simplest components which can cause damage to your interior.
Another thing that we at Sterling do is install ice and water in the valleys and in areas of low spots where water can seep under the shingles. I have seen more roofs than I can count where the valleys leak because of faulty installation.
To file a roof claim or not is a question that is posed to our representatives quite of bit. Our employees has been trained extensively through HAAG ENGINEERING which is considered the premier storm damage recognition firm in the country. Filing a unnecessary insurance claim is not a good route to go considering how insurance companies keep such thorough records. We at Sterling have a very good reputation with Insurance companies for being knowledgeable in regards to storm damage.
Asphalt Roof Shingle Blistering vs. Storm or Hail Damage
- · How to identify hail damage on asphalt roof shingles
- · How to distinguish asphalt roof shingle hail or other storm damage from other conditions
- · Does hail damage shorten asphalt shingle roof life?
- Our site offers impartial, unbiased advice without conflicts of interest. We will block advertisements which we discover or readers inform us are associated with bad business practices, false-advertising, or junk science.
This website tells readers how to identify roof shingle hail damage and how to distinguish hail damage, storm damage from wind, and other conditions such as rash blistering, cracking, and granule loss associated with normal shingle aging.
By listing common causes of asphalt roof shingle failures and how to recognize them, building owners and roofing contractors may also be able to reduce the occurrence of asphalt roof shingle storage, handling, and installation errors that affect roof life. Readers are also invited contribute roof failure information to the web author for research purposes. web author for research purposes.
Asphalt roof shingle hail storm damage versus blister rash on asphalt shingles
What does hail damage look like on asphalt shingle roofs? Areas of lost mineral granules will be apparent, with more severe granule loss on roof slopes facing the direction from which the hailstones fell (or blew) during the storm. Inspecting an asphalt shingle roof shortly after a hail storm, if the roof has been damaged, should show that the areas of mineral granule loss have exposed "fresh" looking shingle substrate - the asphalt impregnated shingle substrate will not yet have been weathered by sun exposure.
Hail damage to roofs versus shingle wear
Hail-damaged roof shingles we've seen or which have been sent along to us as in photo form, show more of a "scouring" effect in which larger, more irregularly-shaped areas of shingle surface have lost granules (and thus have produced a shingle nearer the end of its product life than before the storm.
Worn or weathered asphalt roof shingles which are losing their mineral granules in the course of normal aging, if inspected early in the wear cycle, already show small areas of granule loss, beginning with bald areas on the shingles which may be just the diameter of a few mineral granules. As the sun and weather wear will accelerate in these "bald" spots or micro-spots, when the inspector sees a larger bald spot it will be also weathered, having developed over time as opposed to having developed suddenly during a storm.
Confounding this distinction between hail damage and shingle wear as a source of granule loss, is the wear on an older asphalt shingle roof when exposed to a hailstorm. If the roof were worn (and its mineral granules less securely attached to the shingle surface), we posit that roof will lose more granules more quickly in the hail storm than a newer surface.
Inspect your roof as soon as possible after any storm
- · Inspect your roof regularly, annually would be great, so that you can find and fix damage before it becomes a more costly leak. If you inspect the roof regularly you then can have information to compare with the condition of the roof after a severe storm - you can document when damage occurred and can establish that damage was or was not present before a particular storm.
- · Inspect your roof promptly after a storm: Any storm or wind alone can damage a roof, so the sooner you inspect the roof after a storm the better you can avoid leak damage inside the home, and if an insurance claim for roof damage is warranted, the better will be the data you can provide in support of your claim.
- · Inspect your roof gutters: before and after a storm. If the gutters were clean and after the storm they are loaded with mineral granules you have strong evidence of roof wear and damage due to the hail storm.
- Hail damage versus asphalt shingle blister wear
Asphalt shingle blistering or rash blisters or other visual anomalies on a roof surface versus visual evidence of asphalt shingle hail damage can be tricky to distinguish. Some owners and some roof inspectors who have not seen various types of roof damage may have difficulty distinguishing between blistering, thermal splitting, age cracking, general product wear and granule loss, and other markings on asphalt roof shingles due to specifically hail, ice, or other storm damage.
Shingle rash blisters on asphalt shingles result from the manufacturing process, (and may be cosmetic or possibly a more serious defect) which are sometimes mistaken for hail damage.
Hailstones can be quite large, even golf-ball sized in some cases. Hail might produce a "dent" or a damage point in an asphalt shingle roof surface, resulting in granule loss and reduced remaining roof life. But I'm highly doubtful that hail ever produces raised "blisters" on the shingles such as shown in our description of shingle rash blistering.
Hail damage can dislodge the protective mineral granules of an asphalt shingle, producing areas of exposed asphalt shingle substrate. If inspecting an asphalt shingle (or mineral-granule-covered roof roofing) roof shortly after a hailstorm the exposed shingle substrate should be expected to show freshly-exposed asphalt coated or asphalt impregnated shingle base material. If the same area is examined much later the exposed shingle areas of granule loss may have weathered or even cracked and this distinction (hail versus wear or other sources of granule loss) will be more difficult to distinguish
Asphalt shingle blisters, are raised bumps or protrusions in shingle surface, either closed blisters or open ones showing a small black pit or crater when the protective mineral granules have been lost from the peak of the blister.
Variations in shingle damage or wear according to roof slope pitch and weather or sun exposure
Storm damage is likely to affect different roof slopes differently as their weather exposure varies.
Look closely at the above photo of an asphalt shingle roof after a hailstorm. In the photo sent to me by a reader) I see cracks in some of the shingles. I'd be surprised to learn that the impact of ice pellets on a roof would produce cracking and I pose that the cracks were a preexisting condition on an older shingle roof. (I have seen cracking appear suddenly on asphalt shingles in response to cold weather, in the form of thermal splitting however, a failure for which we have a very different explanation and a different cracking pattern than shown in the photo here--DF.)
Look at the uniformity of roof defects over the field of a given slope to help understand the probable cause. Blistering of asphalt shingles caused by the product itself might appear uniform over all of the roof on all slopes independent of weather exposure. In other cases, if only a few bundles of shingles were defective, say from improper manufacture or storage, asphalt shingle blistering may appear in shingles in a specific pattern on a roof following the application pattern of the shingles themselves as they were nailed to the roof. Since roof shingles from a single bundle are usually applied over a single area of a roof, this pattern and cause may be self-evident on close inspection of the whole roof.
Whose opinion on roof wear do you trust? Sources of conflicts of interest
While many roof inspectors and home inspectors are expected to be un-biased neutral professionals, we cannot assume that this is always the case. The building owner should consider possible sources of conflicting interests on the part of the person performing the inspection. These conflicting interests can occur in both expected and less obvious ways:
- · Who is the roof inspector working for? Some roof inspectors working for the insurance company may be understandably motivated to focus on shingle wear rather than storm damage. If the insurance company inspector can give specifics of what s/he saw on the roof and what those clues mean (such as evidence of other signs of roof wear: cracks, blisters, tears) that opinion should be considered seriously.
- · Will the roof inspector gain financially by the inspection outcome? if the roof inspector is asked to advise on whether or not the roof needs immediate replacement, and if s/he works for a roofing company, the "safe" as well as "profitable" opinion to offer is that replacement is needed.
- · Experienced roofing contractors who conclude that the roof does not need immediate replacement but who have seen many roofs in a given geographic area in many conditions, who give specific details of what s/he saw and what those clues mean, and who conclude that the damage is due to hail (or another cause), have offered an opinion that should be taken seriously.
Roof Ventilation is another component that is highly overlooked when roofs are installed. The more your roof vents the better it is on the life of the shingles and the cooler it is on the inside, especially on 2 story homes. Its very important for roofs to have good air flow on the underside of the roof.
Our company is always asked what are the advantages to having 30 year architectural shingles installed. There are several reason I would recommend this for several reason. First of all it is an added expense but very minimal compared to the benefits. Architectural shingles not only look better and add value to your home, but they are thicker, have a higher wind shear and resistance to hail damage.
Warranties are another important detail when getting your roof replaced. At Sterling we offer a 5 year comprehensive workmanship warranty. A warranty is only as good as the company offering it. Finally make sure you check your prospective roofing contractor out. Check them on the BBB, get references and most of make sure your contractor has insurance. Below we have some helpful links to complete your roofing project
Roofing practices have changed a lot over the past 25 years, mostly due to ever-changing technology and materials. Fiberglass shingles, used often in residential buildings, are thinner and stiffer than asphalt shingles and can telegraph every imperfection. While these materials are often more durable and efficient than previous ones, they require more careful attention to detail during installation.
There are five basic steps for building the best possible roof and avoiding costly callbacks and repairs:
1. Start with a level nailing surface.
2. Provide adequate ventilation.
3. Nail and space panels correctly.
4. Protect sheathing and carefully install felt.
5. Install shingles according to manufacturer's guidelines.
Start With a Level Nailing Surface
Whether you're using plywood or oriented strand board (OSB), the first step in building a high-quality roof is to make sure you have a level nailing surface. You can check this with a 6- to 10-foot piece of lumber or a long carpenter's level. If one support is as little as 1/4 inch lower or higher than the one next to it, you might end up with an uneven roof. If needed, shim trusses or rafters to level the nailing surface, and install blocking to straighten any warped or bowed top chords of trusses or rafters.
Provide Adequate Ventilation
Attic ventilation began as a moisture-control strategy in cold climates, and many builders came to believe that vented attics could help to extend a shingle's life through cooling. Research, however, has done little to support this concept. What it does support is the fact that a roof has two main jobs: to prevent outside moisture from getting in, and to allow inside moisture, caused by human activity, to get out.
Although venting requirements are not based on rigorous scientific research, your local building code should have the specific requirements you need to follow to pass inspections. All that said, here are the minimal guidelines for adequate roof ventilation:
• Install 50 percent of vents near peaks or along ridges, and the rest at eaves or soffits.
• The total free ventilating area can be 1/300 of the attic space if 50-80 percent of the ventilator area is near peaks or ridges, or if a vapor barrier is installed on the warm side of the ceiling. Otherwise, it must be 1/150 of the attic space. (International Residential Code, Section R806.2)
• Vent exhaust air from the kitchen, bath or laundry through the roof to the outside.
• Install baffles at the eaves, leaving at least 1 inch of clear space between framing and/or under roof sheathing to ensure that ceiling or roof insulation doesn't block ventilation paths. For vaulted or cathedral roofs, provide a free ventilation path from eaves to ridges between all rafters.
Nail and Space Panels Correctly
APA Field Service specialists often encounter incorrect nailing and panel spacing. “Many crews build ‘neat and tight' instead of ‘neat, tight and spaced right,'” says Roger Roatch, APA's field services manager for the western region.
Proper spacing is especially important since wood expands and contracts as changes in ambient humidity also change the moisture content in the panels. If panels are butted tightly together, there is no room for expansion. When panels expand, they might bend up or down, or “buckle up” off trusses and rafters. And shingles will move with them, easily causing bulges, ridges and valleys.
Unfortunately, roof problems may not appear for quite some time. For example, when the summer sun is high in the sky, the shadows cast across a roof are very short. As fall approaches, they begin to lengthen, often exposing even the slightest roofline imperfection. Only time will tell the level of skill and care that has gone into the roof installation. To stand the test of time and produce the best possible roof, follow this procedure:
1. Position the first panel and use temporary fasteners at the corners, if needed, to square the panel on the framing. If necessary, trim ends to center panels on the framing.
2. Install fasteners at one panel end.
3. Remove fasteners at corners.
4. Install intermediate fasteners, starting at the panel's edge. Use a chalk line or straight edge to align fasteners on the framing. Fasten panels in rows across the width, continuing this sequence along the length of the panel.
5. To ensure contact with the framing while fastening the panel, stand over the framing near the fastener location. (Standing between framing while nailing can lock a sag into the roof sheathing.) Drive fasteners flush with the panel's surface.
6. Leave 1/8 inch of space between adjacent panel ends and edge joints unless a panel manufacturer recommends otherwise. For a spacing tool, use an 8d common or 10d box nail, or panel edge clips.
7. After sheathing is in place, you can easily saw-cut or kerf out any tight joints you might have missed. The saw blade will give you the 1/8-inch spacing you need. Kerfing, however, must be done before any buckling occurs because once buckling has occurred, the panels will retain a “memory” of the buckle and not flatten out completely.
8. For improved performance, use thicker sheathing panels, panel edge clips, or panels with tongue-and-groove edges. Check local building codes before using panel edge clips since requirements depend on the relationship between a panel's span rating and the actual distance between framing members.
This is the best procedure we've found for securely fastening roof panels and minimizing the effects of stress build-up during their expansion.
Protect Sheathing and Carefully Install Felt
After you've installed the roof sheathing, clean the surface thoroughly and then use a shingle underlayment felt conforming to ASTM D 226, Type I or ASTM D 4869, Type I. Do this as soon as possible to help protect the panels from exposure to weather. Besides cleaning the surface, be sure that all nails and staples are driven straight and made flush with shingles; otherwise, the tabs on shingles will poke up and look uneven.
When you install roofing felt, smooth and flatten it as much as possible before fastening the shingles. Any wrinkles or bulges you leave may prevent the shingles from lying flat.
Install Shingles According to Manufacturer's Guidelines
Check the manufacturer's recommendations for installing shingles. Delay the installation of asphalt or fiberglass shingles as long as possible to give the sheathing time to adjust to humidity and moisture conditions. For the best appearance, use heavier weight, laminated or textured shingles, which will help to mask surface imperfections and reduce the risk of shingle ridging.
